Women's gala dress, Dorgali

The example of women's gala dress from Dorgali (Nuoro) portrayed in the photographs dates back to the first half of the 20th century and is kept at the Nuoro Costume Museum.

It is characterized by the abundant set of traditional jewels. The skill of Dorgali goldsmiths, in fact, is renowned all over the island. The most characteristic jewel is sa zòica, a rich gold pendant that is worn around the neck with its ribbon. Sa Zòica is made of gold foil decorated with filigree and fretwork, studded with green and red crystals. As for the shape, it consists of a cross surmounted by a bow. Unmissable are sa guturada, a necklace with several coral threads interspersed with large golden holes, and the two buttons placed at the closure of the shirt collar, made of gold filigree with a central bezel containing turquoise paste. Pinned to the chest is spilla 'e petorra, a brooch in foil and gold filigree with a floral shape. The coral and gold rosary with a round medal in gold and mother-of-pearl filigree hangs around the neck. A gold chain is added to the rosary, from which hangs a filigree reliquary containing a fragment of brocade. The whole thing is a silver chain, secured to the bodice, to which are hung s'isprugadentes, the toothpaste, which combines the practical function of a toilet accessory with that of an amulet, and sa nuschera, a silver perfume holder in the shape of an ampoule, also equipped with an amuletic

value.

The flashy pendant earrings are in foil and gold filigree with pearls clumped together to suggest the shape of bunches of grapes, a symbol of good wishes of abundance.

The skirt (like tunic) in black orbace, smooth on the front and pleated at the hips and in the back, ends with a large ruffle in light brocade.

The apron is made of black satin embroidered with floral patterns and surrounded by lace.

The white cotton canvas shirt features pleats and rich embroidery (on pervenimentu and on chorus). The cuffs are adorned with pink bows, typical of

wedding wear.

The small bust is formed by a strip of rigid cardboard covered with brocade garnished with golden tripe.

The jacket is made of silk velvet, complemented by brocade in shades of red. The sleeves are embellished with small silver filigree buttons, arranged lengthwise, from the elbow down

The hair is collected using sos cucos, two croquettes placed at the top of the head and held together by a triangular piece (sa perrichedha), all covered by a long shawl (s'isallu), with floral motifs and terminal fringes, secured at the top of the head by a gold brooch.

Update

16/4/2024 - 15:08