Spille

The brooch is an accessory of women's festive clothing present in most of the island, despite its diversity of shape, processing techniques and methods of use; for the most part, this jewel appears to be made of gold, but there are plenty of silver examples. The use is different depending on the location: it can be used to stop the headgear or to keep the handkerchief on the front.
The brooch is an accessory of women's festive clothing present in most of the island, despite its diversity of shape, processing techniques and methods of use; for the most part, this jewel appears to be made of gold, but there are plenty of silver examples.

The use is different depending on the location: it can be used to stop the headgear, to hold the handkerchief on the front or even fix other jewels in certain positions on the chest. Widespread in Trexenta, in Ogliastra, in the Nuoro area, in the Oristano area and in the Baronies, is the sequin palm brooch. The name 'sequin' derives from the fact that the opaque filigree parts highlight the shiny parts in foil. Oliena calls this particular stylized flower-shaped brooch “s'ispilla”.

In some centers of Logudorese, mass-produced brooches made of gold foil and not the work of Sardinian artisans were widespread.
In Quartu Sant'Elena, the brooch ('agulla 'e conca'), in the shape of a daisy in gold filigree, of varying sizes, was used to stop the headgear. The daisy has a filigree corolla with a large red stone in the center with concentric circles of scaramazze and numerous petals in opaque foil worked with burins; the stem is in filigree while the leaves are in foil like the petals.

In Cagliari, a gold pin (ispilla margherita) held the flaps of the bread seller's handkerchief still and crossed on her chest.
The brooch as an accessory of traditional women's clothing is also present in Bono and Bottida, where above the square-shaped white handkerchief folded in a triangle, with the vertices tied behind the back of the neck (muccadore), women wear a white linen bandage (tiadzola), pinned first on the left side and then passed around the head, whose top is held firm by two pins (agudzas).
The chest pins in the southern part of the island are generically called 'broscia', in the north that of 'fremmagliu'.

Update

18/9/2023 - 17:05