Ittiri women's gala dress

The traditional women's dress from Ittiri (Sassari) intended for gala occasions is one of the richest and most precious on the island. The size and the abundance of jewels that accompany it contribute to characterizing it.

The specimen portrayed in the photo gallery dates back to the first half of the 20th century and is kept at the Nuoro Costume Museum.

The headpiece consists of a white satin sackcloth (iscùfia) embroidered with floral motifs and further embellished by the application of additional decorative elements (colored tassels and silver sequins). Above this first headpiece is placed a veil (tullu or velu) of embroidered white tulle, similar to the apron (pannellu'e tullu).

Above the white cotton canvas shirt, a tulle comb (petiera). The shirt is closed in the neckline by a pair of gold filigree cufflinks with a central bezel in gold foil with ruby.

The bolerino (coritu), in purple silk velvet, is garnished along the seams and around the buttonholes with silk thread embroidery of various colors.

The sleeves hang like a black button: a row of ten large silver filigree buttons (but which could also be gold, depending on the woman's economic possibilities), closed by a long hook and T-bar. This type of button, with slightly flattened hemispherical caps, is called “pomegranate”.

Below on the coritu is a stiff satin bustier embroidered with silk threads and golden tinsel, garnished with sequins. Equipped with a side closure, it is supported by a series of palm slats sewn one by one.

According to the typology appropriate to the wealthiest women, the skirt is made of red cloth, decorated at the bottom with two strips of trimmings, including a white ruffle with polychrome floral embroidery. From red, the dominant color of the skirt, the entire dress takes its name (on estire rùju).

Attached to a black velvet collar hangs a gold foil medallion. A necklace with large coral beads stands out, the same material from which the teardrop pendant of the earrings is made.

To complete the jewelry set, a gold chain with a sliding loop, arranged on the chest to form an M with the aid of brooches, also in gold foil.

Update

21/4/2024 - 23:30