Papassinos

Papassinos. Foto di Regione Autonoma della Sardegna, da Sardegna Digital Library

*Papassinos*—also known as *papassinas* in Barbagia and *pabassinas* in Campidano—are diamond-shaped cookies made from flour, raisins, dried fruit, and spices; in some cases, they are topped with white icing and colorful sprinkles. Their name derives directly from *papassa* or *pabassa* (raisins), an ingredient that, along with their diamond shape, defines the product across all its geographical variations.

Their production is historically linked to the festival of the dead, a time when *papassinos* were distributed to children going door-to-door to collect offerings in memory of the deceased. Home baking would begin several days before the festival, as the cookies improve after resting and keep well for weeks. In some areas of the island's north, such as Sassari and Logudoro, *papassinos* also appear during the Christmas season; these versions of the dough omit *sapa* (grape must syrup) in favor of citrus zest and anise flavorings.

The cookie has humble origins, consistent with a pastoral household economy. Originally, the base dough was typically made from leftover bread dough, enriched with raisins, walnuts, and wild fennel seeds (*matafalua* in Sardinian). Modern versions of the dough include eggs, sugar, ground almonds, *sapa*, citrus zest, and star anise. While *sapa* is a staple of Campidano and Barbagia recipes, it is absent from many versions found in Logudoro and Gallura, where it is replaced by sugar and citrus flavorings. The topping (*sa cappa*) is a glaze made of egg white, powdered sugar, and lemon juice, spread over the cooled biscuit and decorated with *tragea* or *mompariglia*—colored and silver sugar sprinkles.

Within the system of autumn ritual gift-giving and exchanges, *papassinos* were prepared in large quantities to be distributed among relatives, neighbors, and local children, in order to honor the deceased with generosity.

Bibliography

Pani. Tradizioni e prospettive della panificazione in Sardegna. Nuoro, Ilisso, 2005.
Dolci in Sardegna. Storia e tradizione. Nuoro, Ilisso, 2011.
G. Marongiu, Mandigos, gustos e licanzas. Selezione di ricette della tradizione orale della Sardegna. Vol. 1, Cagliari, Agenzia LAORE, 2020.
S. Paulis, Dolci in Sardegna. Nuoro, Ilisso, 2024.

Update

11/9/2026 - 15:12